Australian Chardonnays, of course!...
Australian Chardonnays have had a tumultuous history lasting over the past 30 years. It went from the grape - a darling being wined and dined, to being widely rejected as passe. And to then become the comeback queen. However, Chardonnay still reigns supreme in Australian vineyards as a white wine grape. The grape variety also is Australia’s leading white wine grape variety export to the world. Add in the fact that it consistently wins international trophies, and you are really onto a winner.
In 2025, Chardonnay was still the Australian white wine of choice being sent to the UK. For a sublime moment in 2022 and 2023, Chardonnay wine was the most exported Australian wine globally. Shiraz has again claimed that place. The competition between the two grape giants resumes. (wineaustralia.com)
ABC – Anything but Chardonnay...
Sadly, I still remember the ABC era well. The ‘Anything but Chardonnay’ curse. Thankfully it remains a blip in history. Because despite some wine lover’s turning their backs, many of us Chardonnay lovers were still sending our love Chardonnay’s way.
I remember writing in 2012 that Australian wine producers, writers and educators had been noticeably more optimistic about Australian Chardonnay for a few years. I once wrote: “Chardonnay needed a bit of a time out of the spotlight. Time to regroup and come back and lead from a position of strength. There are no real losers here. With Chardonnay coming back into the drinker’s repertoire, there is more choice and more diversity available for our vinous pleasure.” And this remains true.
The start of Australian Chardonnay’s Reformation
At the time, I noted that wine drinkers were more likely to have a short term wine memory of Chardonnays being over buttery and tinned pineapple juice. The wines that were more likely to be in your glass in the late 00s / early 10s were different. They were far more subtle in aroma and flavour and silkily fine in texture. The change was deliberate in some instances. Some large producers with chief winemakers seeing the need for change around 2000.
Some producers swung back to austerity in style in those early years. Of course, Chardonnay looking more like Italian Pinot Grigio causes confusion. It goes without saying that it is not necessarily going to win back hearts.
However, by early 2010s, the careful portion work was common. With some components of the blend seeing oak barrel ferment / maturation, while the rest only see stainless steel. This produces wines with bright fresh fruit with silk and cream along the palate. Even when oak is used, it is often a mixture of new and used. This gives roundness and a hint of toast rather than buttery and overplump vanilla.
For recommendations about some of the best Chardonnay wines that Australian winemakers are producing please read More Great Australian Chardonnays
Not that there is not a place in the glass for those wines…
Because there is. Today, there is a wide range of styles available. Particularly, in the value oriented price categories. There you will still find versions seeing only stainless steel such as Taylors / Wakefield Promised Land Chardonnay if you can still find it. You will also find versions that are big, round and buttery.
It goes without saying though, the more you pay, the finer your Chardonnay. You will find that there is a great selection of finely tuned Australian Chardonnays. And your challenge is to find your personal style.
I hope that you choose to accept that challenge….
While Australian Riesling and Semillon are sought for their leanness and purity of fruit, Chardonnay is more about carefully rendered augmentations. The more complex flavours stemming from Chardonnay spending time languishing on lees or partial malolactic fermentation, add an extra dimension to the aromas and flavours and that extra creaminess factor. This is bolstered by some softening time in oak which may also impart some toastiness and spices. The skill of the winemaker is to make these augmentations to be as natural looking as possible.
Either way, Australian Chardonnay continues to gain not just winelover’s attention. It also has claimed a huge number of accolades and trophies for best Chardonnay. Often winning ahead of the famous French Burgundy wines. I think it could be said that Australian Chardonnay has hit its stride.
When choosing your Chardonnay, it will be especially important to know your basic wine label terms. Terms such as unoaked, barrel matured, barrel fermented, battonage, and indigenous yeast ferment will be particularly useful to know. So too, 'minimal intervention'.
To brush up on those terms, please read 'Wine label terms you should know.'
What to eat with your Chardonnay
Undeniably, Chardonnay is a great companion to food and until the oak become more of a caricature than a supporting act, always was. And if you are a Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc-lover feeling your attention beginning to wander, now is the time to rediscover the foodie aspect of this versatile grape.
It is this fine texture and the more robust flavours and body that make Chardonnay so versatile when it comes to food. For instance, while a Pinot Grigio will be quickly overwhelmed by a herb crusted chicken, Chardonnay will work well. It will match the dish’s weight, keep it fresh and add some perspective.
A well chosen Chardonnay can flow from the aperitif, to the starter course and on to the main event. I have yet to come across a typical Sauvignon Blanc that would perform anywhere near as well.
Serving Suggestions
(Note: Chablis wines may fit in other of these two groups, because it will depend on how the wine has been made. In saying that however, many Chablis wines will suit food in both groups of suggestions.)
For an unoaked version, I would recommend goats cheese salads, seafood, white fish and lighter flavoured foods. An unoaked version will match with fish and chips for instance. Or tempura prawns. Even an asparagus mornay crepe. I include Chablis in both groups of these wines because it will depend on how the wine has been made. However, many Chablis wines will suit food in both groups of suggestions.
It is with an oaked Chardonnay that you can choose richer flavours as well as the suggestions above. Roast chicken, some pork dishes, grilled vegetables, crab, grilled buttery scallops. All these more robust flavours and textures are very good matches for a fuller to bold bodied Chardonnay.
Serving temperature & glassware
Serving temperature for Chardonnay really does matter. Served too cold and the oak flavours will be prominent, and the texture may feel firmer than when in balance at the slightly warmer temperature. The larger the wine glass used will also impact the balance of an oaked Chardonnay. A large goblet shaped wine glass is a good choice. Don’t pour too much as you want to be able to swirl your wine.
Don’t worry though. It is fine to use a standard Riedel red wine glass (Bordeaux) shape if that is what you have.
Serving temperature for unoaked Chardonnay : Serve these wines as chilled around 6 - 8 oC in a standard white wine glass.
Serving temperature for oaked or lees matured Chardonnay : Serve these wines as more lightly chilled around 8 - 10 oC. This will allow the wine to relax and show its creamy texture. Good in a goblet shape or a large general red wine glass.
Just a few Australian Chardonnay recommendations with a budget in mind
Oxford Landing Chardonnay (£10)
The Chardonnay fruit is in the ripe zone here. It has also has been wild yeast fermented with time in contact with oak. Pineapple, peach and melon with some lightly toasted nuts. It is medium bodied highlighted by fresh acid. You get quite a lot for your spend here.
Click here for the full review
Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay (£16 +)
This is another Chardonnay that has had an indigenous yeast ferment and has some age aging and lees stirring. This time from Australia's Margaret River region. It is dry but juicy and texural. An abundance of fragrant nectarine and guava fruit is offset by a vanilla and cream . This is a richer style of Chardonnay.
Click here for the full review
Payten & Jones Chardonnay (£26)
This is a Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley in Victoria. A region that is also well known for its fine Chardonnays. This wine is a rather buttery Chardonnay. It is spicy and full bodied with grilled pineapple and fresh peach. It is bold and it is a big mouthful yet it is also well contained and elegant with it.
Click here for the full review
For recommendations about some of the best Chardonnay wines that Australian winemakers are producing please read More Great Australian Chardonnays
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