A wine that shares a name with a cheese.

Pecora means ‘sheep’ in Italian. ‘Pecorino’ refers to that connection. Of course, cheeselovers know that Pecorino is a type of ewe milk cheese. A rather delicious one, if I say so myself. However, I have to admit that I prefer the white wines made from the grape variety that shares that name.

The grape has a fascinating history. I have been fascinated by the history of Viognier and how it was close to extinct before its revival. The Pecorino grape has a similar story. So much so that it even has website, vinopecorino, all about it. 

What is the connection then to sheep’s cheese? Or for that matter, sheep? Both the name of the grape and the cheese reference those sheep. It is really simple. Pecora means sheep in Italian. If wine growers observe that the local sheep herds love to eat those tasty grapes, why wouldn’t they give the variety that name. 

The grape’s home is central Italy and its history entwines around the regions Marche and Abruzzo. Of course, the grape grows in neighbouring Italian regions too, not just Marche and Abruzzo. Here is a little bit of background.

Rescued from extinction

Pecorino’s revival centres around Monte Vettore, very near the Marche borders with Umbria and Abruzzo. It grows very comfortably up there on those slopes, and it is a grape that enjoys higher altitudes. We can now appreciate it thanks to the forethought of Guido Cocci Grifoni, amongst others. The website vinopecorino has a snippet of an interview that he gave:

“…one morning in September, before the harvest, I and others went to Arquata del Tronto, in the hamlet of Pescara, where they had pointed out to me an ancient vineyard cultivated with Pecorino. Arrived on the site I was indicated by the owner of the land Mr. Cafini some shoots that were evidently two, or three, generations old. In the following February I went back to pick up the shoots and took them to my company in Ripatransone, where I made the first grafts: my idea was to cultivate it in purity. I know, it was a crazy idea, everyone said it, my friends always repeated it to me in the winter evenings in front of the fire, but I wanted that wine, I knew it was possible, and I never doubted”.

….

The rest, as they say, is history.

By 1983, there were experimental plantings of the grape and soon after, the first wines were made. Tenuta Cocci Grifoni is still producing different expressions of Pecorino. However, the grape’s popularity is growing speedily and luckily, so too is its availability.

It grows well from high altitudes such as where it was rediscovered. At those altitudes it can retain higher acid but also does well in many other vineyard conditions.  

Not just Italy

Just 87 ha of vineyard area was dedicated to the grape in 2000 in Italy. Of course, that is from a base of perhaps one derelict vineyard. That area grew to more than 1,600 ha within 20 years. It is also spreading around the world, particularly to Australia. 

Australian wine growers are embracing the grape thanks to the Chalmers family’s nursery service. They also offer other ‘alternative Italian’ varieties such as Falanghina, Verdicchio, Grechetto and Ribolla Gialla.  In Australia, the grape grows in vineyards not just in North West Victoria in the Chalmers’ vineyards. The first vines in Australia were planted around Merbein by the Chalmers family, Victoria in 2015. It now also grows in regions such as McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills and the Hunter Valley. 

What to expect

The white wine grape is rather a versatile one. One of its attractions is that it has good resistance to some fungal infections due to its thick skins. It is a little fussy about the soil type it finds its roots in. For example, if a winegrower wishes to plant a vine in calcium rich soil, they might need to find a specific rootstock.

In winemaking, it makes a wide range of wines. From delicious sparkling wines, lighter and fruitier wines, full bodied and textural wines to rich and sweet wines. 

Depending on the style, the wine’s characters can range from apples, citrus and pears to herbal to ripe peach. Generally though, there is some mineral quality to the wine. This may come through as a salty character and a saline slight oily texture. 

This shouldn’t detract from the grape’s fresh appeal. If it is not picked just ripe, it can also have high alcohol. Maybe up to the 14.5%.

It is noted for being an intensely concentrated characterful wine. 

The Chamber’ family notes that in their experience, it might be better whole bunch pressed. This will mean the must, or juice, will have little contact with the skins which they note as adding bitterness.

By drying the grapes using the Passito method, Pecorino is capable of intensely sweet and rich dessert wines. 

What to eat with Pecorino wines

Start with Pecorino cheese, of course. Or any other salty cheeses. 

If you have a lighter style of dry Pecorino, or a sparkling version, then look towards the sea. The saltiness of shellfish and fish is ideal. It goes without saying that vegetarian pastas and risottos work well too. 

If you have a fuller bodied version with lots of texture, then more robust flavours are go here. A mushroom risotto with roasted prosciutto crumbled through it is just right. However, I would also think that a pork will work well too. 

As a dessert wine, I would recommend that pannacotta and nutty desserts will be good. 

Here are a couple to look out for:

Duca di Sesseta Pecorino Terre Abruzzesi (IGT) Biologico

Lime zest and herbs with a hint of floral perfume. Even in the aromas, you can find a savoury minerality and some nuttiness. The wine is fuller in body with a salty, slightly oily texture. It is fresh and refreshing yet it is also an intriguingly textural wine. It has just enough acid to keep it soft and fruity. The finish is of pear, stonefruit and still retains that light floral hints along with that mineral savouriness.

This is an organic wine. Lidl £9

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Tiberio Pecorino

The Tiberio Pecorino is a fuller bodied version that is bone dry, fruity and savoury. Plenty of peach fruit with fresh herbs, nuts and the mineral twist on the finish.  A good example of the grape’s unique personality. 

To read the full review, please click here….

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