July 4, 2013

Give Sauvignon Blanc a Rest – drink Arneis

Australia’s shelves are groaning under the weight of Sauvignon Blanc. It has become to go-to grape for many who rely on its familiarity, its characteristic juxtaposition of ripe and under ripeness. It is easy to grab as you scoot past the bottle shop shelf and often that block of fruit is backed up with more than a sprinkle of residual sugar.

Arneis is not so common, and as such offers fresh ripe fruit that sits more lightly on the tongue and offers more elegance than the flambouyance of Sauvignon Blanc.  This elegance combined with crisp acid makes this varietal more than food friendly, something that the majority of imported Sauvignon Blanc cannot claim.

Hailing from the northern Italy region of Piedmonte it is a beguiling grape with the nickname ‘Little Rascal’ in reference to its fussiness in living conditions. However, it is beginning to find a foothold here in Australia and is most welcome. Some of the better expressions come from central Victorian including King Valley and producers from Rutherglen who source fruit from there.

Here are two:

Pizzini Arneis 2012

There is nothing banal in this bright and vivacious style of Arneis.  It is sporting apple, ripe pear and spicy blossom freshness and the generosity of fruit is balanced by the firm crisp acid. It is just one of the Italian varietals done well by the Pizzini family nestled in the rolling hills of the King Valley. Drink it while it retains that floral bouquet.

Date: March 2013   Price:  $22   Value: $$$   Drink:  Now

Chrismont La Zona Arneis 2012

Arnie Pizzini is one of the Northern Victorian producers doing good things with this Italian grape.

Alive with juicy golden pear, citrus and nuts with a mineral backbone. There is plenty of freshness and fruit weight to enjoy along with a fuller body and a long solid finish. A wine made for good food and convivial company.

Date: March 2013   Price:  $22   Value: $$$   Drink:  Now  – 3 years

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